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At the core of every visit to the Hunter Valley are the vineyards and quality wine. The Hunter Valley has been producing wine since the 1820′s. The regions semillons and shiraz are well known for their unique style.

No other wine can match the low alcohol (normally around 11%), fresh zesty style of the Hunter Valley semillon. So versatile and it also ages very well. So much so that there are many wines from the 70’s and 80’s that are still drinking well. If only they had been bottled with a screwcap, then some of this wine could be almost immortal.

In a market that is in some places moving towards lower alcohol levels, Hunter Valley semillon is a very neat fit for aging as well as drinking relatively young. The local shiraz is a wine that divides with its more moderate body and alcohol combined with earthy, gamey notes. The Hunter River Burgundy has a reputation for its silky and earthy complexity. These wines can age well as illustrated by some of the Lindemans releases from the 1960’s.

Even more remarkable is that the wines from Maurice O’Shea were made under harsh conditions including without electricity and, in some cases, during the last years of the Second World War. Chardonnay is also a local strength driven largely by the wines of Max Lake and Murray Tyrrell. Despite the warm Hunter climate both wines can age magnificently well. The modern style is much leaner and fresher than some of the heavily oaked and worked examples of the past. Then there is Cabernet Sauvignon – one wine grown on a South-Easterly facing red volcanic hill. Many locals believe is the area’s best piece of dirt. Of course, I am talking about Lake’s Folly. Max Lake was always bucking trends and turning his nose at the establishment.

This is well illustrated in an old bottle of Folly. I recently shared a 1985 Lake’s Folly Cabernet at 12% alcohol from a good vintage that is still singing its varietal and regional origins.

While there is certainly great history to the Hunter, perhaps its strongest suit, for the moment, is a new generation of winemakers exerting greater influence over the local styles, which will continue for some time to come.

The small towns around Mount Macedon such as Woodend or Kyneton, which are located an hour North-West of Melbourne, and you can’t fail to miss the faintly Northern European feel of the place. Perhaps it is the crisp bite of a cool Spring day, the historical streetscapes or even the patches of greenery from recent Winter rains but this is a very unique and beautiful landscape; not just in geography but also the climate that envelops it.

Unsurprisingly within this cool environment, which encompasses a multitude of hills and valleys, are pockets of vineyards that are creating exquisite, modern styles of Australian wine. Despite the potential and some brilliant wines the Macedon remains surprisingly unknown to many.

The lack of any one strong brand driving the region’s fortunes certainly doesn’t help. And if the truth be told, no big company would even consider large-scale plantings here – the challenges are just too great and the yields low. But for those vignerons that identify the right site and then put their all into grafting a quality product, there are tremendous rewards to reap. To date, the best known wines of the Macedon have been the local pinot noirs and chardonnays from the likes of Curly Flat and Bindi, with others such as Lanes End and Paramoor also showing promise. There is an Aladdin’s cave of potential sites yet to be explored; it seems more than likely that the quality of product in the Macedon is destined to go from strength to strength over the next ten to twenty years.

Recently at the Macedon Show I was again reminded that, while pinot noir and chardonnay have driven the region’s fortunes to date, the region also has a knack of consistently turning out some of Australia’s greatest Sparkling wines. In the old days that may not have meant so much but from cool mainland regions, today lead by the Macedon, as well as Tasmania, more and more locally produced wines are really challenging the quality of fine French Champagne. The Macedon instils in its best wines a delicacy and purity of acidity that is remarkably reminiscent of fine French bubbly. It’s no surprise in that vineyards in both the Macedon and Champagne are some of the coolest. The resulting wines their much-praised elegance while keeping intact a rigid core of acidity.

At the 2009 Macedon show, two sparkling wines, stood out, and both from the same producer. The first was the Mount William Blanc de Blanc from 2001, a sparkling chardonnay that is still remarkably fresh and alive. The Mount William ‘Jorja Alexis’ Pinot Noir Rosé from 2003, is a very pretty and subtle wine with multiple layers. The red berry and subtle earthy nuances are supremely balanced into a silky package.

There are few if any Australian wine regions that can quite match the majestic beauty and splendour of Western Australia’s Margaret River. The pristine white beaches that stretch up and down the coast. Beyond the sand dunes, rolling hills and the occasional outcrop of beautiful native forest. This is a place that draws people closer. The mix of natural beauty, attractions and the idyllic lifestyle.

But the sailing in Margaret River has not always been so smooth. In the mid 60’s when the first ideas were floated of grapes being grown here, the area was in a slump. The once popular timber industry had almost disappeared and the locals were looking for something to help bring them out of the economic depression they had fallen in to. Then along came Dr John Gladstones, whom reckoned that Margaret River might be a special place to grow grapes. Soon plantings began and the area would be changed forever.

First Tom Cullity at Vasse Felix, then Di and Kevin Cullen at Cullen and finally Bill Pannell at Moss Wood put experimental vineyards in the ground, wines from which quickly showcased the areas potential. With over 120 producers in the Margaret River region it is without doubt one of our greatest Australian fine wine zones. Local names such as Moss Wood, Cullen and Leeuwin Estate sit comfortably among the greatest Australian producers. Their wines are highly sought after both locally and internationally.

One of the region’s most enduring qualities is the vitality of the local people. There is a great belief in what Margaret River has to offer. The winemakers aspire to not only make wines that match up to the best from Australia but stand up as great wines of the world. You can see it in the eyes of producers. Keith Mugford from Moss Wood, Mike Peterkin of Pierro and Vanya Cullen of Cullen. There is a great self-assuredness that never stretches towards arrogance. And they back it up with brilliance in each and every bottle.

In terms of quality, while the old firm of Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood, Vasse Felix, Cullen, Cape Mentelle, Howard Park and Pierro still are generally responsible for the region’s greatest wines, underneath there is a growing band of producers knocking on the door. Woodlands and the revitalised Xanadu come to mind as two wineries with great potential. Perhaps the most exciting of such ventures, and one that is quickly rising to be among Margaret River’s best, is Voyager Estate.

The original vines of what is now Voyager Estate were first planted in 1978, under the name of Freycinet Estate. These vineyards, in 1991, were bought and significantly expanded on.. This was a masterstroke because the area has since become known as ‘Golden triangle of Chardonnay’.
When in Margaret River, it is impossible to miss Voyager Estate. South of the township and closely located to Leeuwin Estate, it is marked by a huge flagpole as well as the large Cape Dutch style building which sits amongst magnificent grounds. While the built environment is slick, it is what’s in the local vineyards and winery that really impresses. What is clear here is that in all facets of the Voyager Estate operation everything is done with perfection. And no one better exemplifies this than winemaker Cliff Royle

I first met Cliff before a tasting of some barrels that would end up in his Cabernet Merlot blend from the highly acclaimed 2007 vintage, and he was a little nervous. He wasn’t quite ready to let his young wines out into the big, wide world. Well he needn’t have worried because they were well recieved, although the 2007 vintage won’t be released for at least another couple of years.

The current releases from Voyager Estate include three absolute knockouts. The first is their renowned Chardonnay from the icy Margaret River vintage of 2006. While reds have been hard for some in 2006, the whites are superb with intense fruit and acidity. The 2006 Voyager Chardonnay ($35) has powerful peach and citrus on a taut and youthful palate with a little creamy complexity and brilliant length. It is one of the best 2006 Margaret River Chardonnays. My favourite for drinking now is the 2005 Shiraz ($35). The Margaret River, not normally known for producing standout Shiraz, but this is a wonderful example of dense cool climate Shiraz with clove and blackberry fruit lifted by hints of violets and licorice. In the mouth there is such a youthful feel that will only get better over the next decade. The nest known wines from Voyager Estate is the Cabernet Merlot ($60), with the 2004 release one of their best so far. This wine is really built for the long term with gravelly cassis and blackberry fruit rounded out nicely with some subtle notes of olive and oak. In the mouth there is great generosity of fruit that is currently bound up in its significant structure. But in ten to fifteen years it will be a fabulous drink.

There are few if any Australian wine regions that can quite match the majestic beauty and splendour of Western Australia’s Margaret River. The pristine white beaches that stretch up and down the coast. Beyond the sand dunes, rolling hills and the occasional outcrop of beautiful native forest. This is a place that draws people closer. The mix of natural beauty, attractions and the idyllic lifestyle.

But the sailing in Margaret River has not always been so smooth. In the mid 60’s when the first ideas were floated of grapes being grown here, the area was in a slump. The once popular timber industry had almost disappeared and the locals were looking for something to help bring them out of the economic depression they had fallen in to. Then along came Dr John Gladstones, whom reckoned that Margaret River might be a special place to grow grapes. Soon plantings began and the area would be changed forever.

First Tom Cullity at Vasse Felix, then Di and Kevin Cullen at Cullen and finally Bill Pannell at Moss Wood put experimental vineyards in the ground, wines from which quickly showcased the areas potential. With over 120 producers in the Margaret River region it is without doubt one of our greatest Australian fine wine zones. Local names such as Moss Wood, Cullen and Leeuwin Estate sit comfortably among the greatest Australian producers. Their wines are highly sought after both locally and internationally.

One of the region’s most enduring qualities is the vitality of the local people. There is a great belief in what Margaret River has to offer. The winemakers aspire to not only make wines that match up to the best from Australia but stand up as great wines of the world. You can see it in the eyes of producers. Keith Mugford from Moss Wood, Mike Peterkin of Pierro and Vanya Cullen of Cullen. There is a great self-assuredness that never stretches towards arrogance. And they back it up with brilliance in each and every bottle.

In terms of quality, while the old firm of Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood, Vasse Felix, Cullen, Cape Mentelle, Howard Park and Pierro still are generally responsible for the region’s greatest wines, underneath there is a growing band of producers knocking on the door. Woodlands and the revitalised Xanadu come to mind as two wineries with great potential. Perhaps the most exciting of such ventures, and one that is quickly rising to be among Margaret River’s best, is Voyager Estate.

The original vines of what is now Voyager Estate were first planted in 1978, under the name of Freycinet Estate. These vineyards, in 1991, were bought and significantly expanded on.. This was a masterstroke because the area has since become known as ‘Golden triangle of Chardonnay’.
When in Margaret River, it is impossible to miss Voyager Estate. South of the township and closely located to Leeuwin Estate, it is marked by a huge flagpole as well as the large Cape Dutch style building which sits amongst magnificent grounds. While the built environment is slick, it is what’s in the local vineyards and winery that really impresses. What is clear here is that in all facets of the Voyager Estate operation everything is done with perfection. And no one better exemplifies this than winemaker Cliff Royle

I first met Cliff before a tasting of some barrels that would end up in his Cabernet Merlot blend from the highly acclaimed 2007 vintage, and he was a little nervous. He wasn’t quite ready to let his young wines out into the big, wide world. Well he needn’t have worried because they were well recieved, although the 2007 vintage won’t be released for at least another couple of years.

The current releases from Voyager Estate include three absolute knockouts. The first is their renowned Chardonnay from the icy Margaret River vintage of 2006. While reds have been hard for some in 2006, the whites are superb with intense fruit and acidity. The 2006 Voyager Chardonnay ($35) has powerful peach and citrus on a taut and youthful palate with a little creamy complexity and brilliant length. It is one of the best 2006 Margaret River Chardonnays. My favourite for drinking now is the 2005 Shiraz ($35). The Margaret River, not normally known for producing standout Shiraz, but this is a wonderful example of dense cool climate Shiraz with clove and blackberry fruit lifted by hints of violets and licorice. In the mouth there is such a youthful feel that will only get better over the next decade. The nest known wines from Voyager Estate is the Cabernet Merlot ($60), with the 2004 release one of their best so far. This wine is really built for the long term with gravelly cassis and blackberry fruit rounded out nicely with some subtle notes of olive and oak. In the mouth there is great generosity of fruit that is currently bound up in its significant structure. But in ten to fifteen years it will be a fabulous drink.

The small towns around Mount Macedon such as Woodend or Kyneton, which are located an hour North-West of Melbourne, and you can’t fail to miss the faintly Northern European feel of the place. Perhaps it is the crisp bite of a cool Spring day, the historical streetscapes or even the patches of greenery from recent Winter rains but this is a very unique and beautiful landscape; not just in geography but also the climate that envelops it.

Unsurprisingly within this cool environment, which encompasses a multitude of hills and valleys, are pockets of vineyards that are creating exquisite, modern styles of Australian wine. Despite the potential and some brilliant wines the Macedon remains surprisingly unknown to many.

The lack of any one strong brand driving the region’s fortunes certainly doesn’t help. And if the truth be told, no big company would even consider large-scale plantings here – the challenges are just too great and the yields low. But for those vignerons that identify the right site and then put their all into grafting a quality product, there are tremendous rewards to reap. To date, the best known wines of the Macedon have been the local pinot noirs and chardonnays from the likes of Curly Flat and Bindi, with others such as Lanes End and Paramoor also showing promise. There is an Aladdin’s cave of potential sites yet to be explored; it seems more than likely that the quality of product in the Macedon is destined to go from strength to strength over the next ten to twenty years.

Recently at the Macedon Show I was again reminded that, while pinot noir and chardonnay have driven the region’s fortunes to date, the region also has a knack of consistently turning out some of Australia’s greatest Sparkling wines. In the old days that may not have meant so much but from cool mainland regions, today lead by the Macedon, as well as Tasmania, more and more locally produced wines are really challenging the quality of fine French Champagne. The Macedon instils in its best wines a delicacy and purity of acidity that is remarkably reminiscent of fine French bubbly. It’s no surprise in that vineyards in both the Macedon and Champagne are some of the coolest. The resulting wines their much-praised elegance while keeping intact a rigid core of acidity.

At the 2009 Macedon show, two sparkling wines, stood out, and both from the same producer. The first was the Mount William Blanc de Blanc from 2001, a sparkling chardonnay that is still remarkably fresh and alive. The Mount William ‘Jorja Alexis’ Pinot Noir Rosé from 2003, is a very pretty and subtle wine with multiple layers. The red berry and subtle earthy nuances are supremely balanced into a silky package.